Naples & Rome

Our visit to Naples started off a bit rocky—we took the bus to the train station and on our 10 minute bus ride Fritz was pick-pocketed. Luckily they only got his cruise card as he had heeded all the warnings and had his wallet in the inside pocket of his European Man Bag (really an Eddie Bauer nylon shoulder bag) which he had firmly held by his side. He was wedged up against the wall so he couldn’t move his other arm and we were wedged in like sardines. The guy was good—while face to face with Fritz he managed to reach inside his windbreaker and get the card out of his shirt pocket. 

It didn’t stop us enjoying the day. We took the train to Pompeii where we joined a small group of English speakers on a private tour. Our guide, Pasquale, was excellent (he’s been doing it 42 years) and we learned more about the Romans (they were only 5 feet tall while their slaves were over 6 feet) than we ever could have imagined. Did you know that the wine bottles had pointed bottoms because they used to stick them in the sand in the hold of the ship that was used for ballast.

After Pompeii, we got back on the train and headed south to Sorrento. We were really struck by the graffiti. It’s such a shame that beautiful historic buildings, along with every other surface, including most train station signs and all of the train cars, are covered. There doesn’t seem to be any effort to cover any of it up.

Sorrento was lovely. Our new best friend, Enrico, made us fabulous pizzas in his fancy pizza oven and we trekked down the little windy side streets down to the harbor to catch our hydrofoil back to Naples. Very conveniently the hydrofoil dropped us just across the pier from our ship. Security is very laissez-faire on the dock in Naples, so we were able to get Fritz back to the ship to report his lost card. 

After Naples it was on to Rome. The ship docked in Civitavecchia which is about an hour and a half from Rome by train. We bought our all day train, bus and metro passes for 9 Euros and hopped the first train. Here’s the “it’s a small world” story for this trip. The people sitting across the aisle from us were from Seward Park in Seattle. When I said that I had lived there when we first came from England in 1966 they asked us where. I described the house and location and she said “well that’s 5403 and that’s my sister’s house”. Amazing! (and, they weren’t from the ship—just random travelers).

What’s not to love about Rome? The weather was gorgeous, about 70 degrees, and the sun was shining, and the sky was blue. We wandered around and threw our coins in the Trevi Fountain and meandered by the Pantheon. We had a great birthday lunch for Barbara on the Piazza Navonne. Sipping wine, while eating our caprese salads and spaghetti carbonara-- the music playing and the waiters humming in the background—it doesn’t get much better!

We completed our loop walking tour by going past the Vittorio Emmanuel memorial and back up to the train station. We topped off our day with gelato—just a little snack before a 5 course dinner.  Next port—new clothes with spandex!

Barcelona, Voyager of the Seas

We took the bus from the airport to downtown Barcelona and walked the couple of blocks to our hotel, the Hotel Continental Palacete, just off Plaza Catalunya, which was actually once a Palace. We were going to take a taxi, but the taxi warden at the airport wanted to cram all four of us and our luggage into a Toyota Corolla and we wanted a mini-van. She refused to let the guy with the mini-van jump to the front of the lengthy queue, so we took the bus. As we drove off she was having to contend with about six angry drivers who thought she was as ridiculous as we did. Our motto—always have a Plan B.

First stop in Barcelona—a Tapas bar, where we loaded up on little sandwiches and nibblies and some liquid refreshments—oh, and Fritz had the requisite chunk of chocolate cake! Once restored we walked the length of the Ramblas to the port. With one hand on our wallets (the Ramblas is notorious for pickpockets) we strolled through the market and marveled at the varieties of fish, vegetables, cheeses,hams, eggs (including Ostrich) and other delights. The temperature at 6:00pm was a delightful 60+ degrees—quite the change from Paris.

Sunday we boarded the Voyager of the Seas and were pleasantly surprised to have been upgraded to a “Junior Suite”. It’s certainly the fanciest cabin we’ve ever had—coffee maker, couch and chairs in a little sitting area, nice big bathtub, but the envy of all—a walk-in closet (really). We are enjoying it as we have it for just this week, and next week we go back to our original balcony cabin amongst the peasants.

This ship is really cool. It has a three-tiered dining room, reminscent of something you would see in New Orleans or Paris—ornate columns, wrought iron railings, long sweeping staircases and huge chandeliers. The ship also has a central promenade with an English pub nestled among the shops—it’s on our list to try out. Barbara and I are thinking of taking up roller-blading so that we can try out the course on board. Also, there’s an ice rink, but we think we’ll just watch on that one—and we’ll just watch at the rock climbing wall. We were going to do ballroom dancing today, but we’ve discovered that it’s Belly Dancing—so I’m thinking we’ll give that one a pass—at least until we’ve been to the gym.

Farewell to Paris--On to Barcelona

As we prepare to leave Paris for Barcelona tomorrow, we wrapped up our trip with a bus tour across town. We took the #69 bus from the end of our street through all the great neighborhoods to the 20th district. At the end of the line we visited the Pere Lachaise cemetery and paid our respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison, among others. There were some amazing memorial statues to those who died in the various concentration camps during the war. Also, many to those who fought for the resistance and died at the hands of the Nazis.

There is so much more to see, but we will have to save it for another visit. Lasting memories from this trip include:

The Food--of course, and we have done our best to sample as much as we could--crepes, cheese, croissants, frites, beef, lamb, mushrooms, fruit--all of it fresh and colorful and washed down with some great wines.

The Architecture---my descriptions can't possibly do it justice, but I love the wrought iron balconies--some dripping with flowers. The carved corbels and pediments over the windows and doors. The statuary and the gargoyles and the lamp posts and the bridges. All set in magnificent boulevards ending in grand squares with fountains or obelisks-- or windy little cobble-stoned streets that dead end abruptly as you round the corner.

The Metro-- We love subway systems everywhere, and this one is as fun to navigate as most--and even with the strikes it got us to where we wanted to be quickly and we only had to jump the turnstiles once.

The Shops--While everything here seems very expensive, especially with the Euro so strong, it's great fun to see what's available. Today we spent some time looking at the incredible variety of fresh fish (eels, scallops, octopus, shrimp, sardines, etc. etc. in the fish shop opposite the hotel. It was next door to the Cheese Shop which has more varieties of cheese than I've ever come across. Add to that fabulous bakeries every few steps, interspersed with cafes and chocolate shops--what's not to love!

The Weather--We've been so lucky that there has been only the briefest drop of rain while we've been here. Otherwise, it's been clear and cool--with splashes of sun!

Au Revoir from Paris.

Versailles, The Louvre and More

Wow, we have been on the run all over town and beyond. I had computer difficulties the other day--yes, user error, but the French instructions didn't help, so this is a few day's worth of activities.

A quick update on the political situation. We have not been impacted at all, although the lady at Versailles told us that they decide each day whether to open--depending on how many show up for work. The day we were there they opened an hour late-creating a big jam for those that had gone early--not us--we were eating. A few less trains running in the metro, but we don't follow a schedule so we don't know if they're late anyway. Word is that things are getting back to normal.

Yesterday, we took the train to the Palace of Versailles to get some home decorating and landscaping ideas. Talk about opulent, but I guess that's what Louis XIV had in mind 300 years ago when he and his 5,000 aristocratic buddies and entourage decamped Paris for the new digs.  If you're into gilt and marble, this is the place for you. Unfortunately, at this time, there's also some Japanese art exhibit going on and in the middle of the Hall of Mirrors there's a 15 foot high purple Pokeman like thing. We all thought that it detracted from the main event, but the Japanese tourists were in awe.

I personally like the brocaded canopies over and around the beds and thought it would be fun to do at home, especially with the plumes of feathers on the top. I also particularly liked the 8 inch deep dark red and purple marble door surrounds and thought it might add a nice touch to our house.

The gardens were amazing and spread beyond what the eye could see. We wandered up and down many of the pathways lined with trees and it felt as if you were in a giant maze. There were people boating on the grand canal and they looked like little dots from the house. We did have a sandwich in the garden and imagined what it would be like to send the children to play in the garden (come back when you're 18), but I'm sure they had nannies for things like that.

Yesterday we took the metro to the Arc De Triomphe and had none of the difficulties exiting that we did on our last trip--when we took a wrong turn and ended up face to face with a group of soldiers practicing with machine guns.  This time, we strolled out into the sunshine and spent some time watching the traffic whiz around the circle while all of us snap-happy tourists used up our gigabites on a multitude of photos.

We then ambled down the Champs Elysees and did a lot of window shopping. The guys went into Mercedes Benz and drooled over something that cost 189,000 euros, while Barbara and I zipped through all five floors of the flagship store of Louis Vuitton. I particularly liked a turquoise purse, but at 17,500 euros I thought that it might cut into my croissant budget, so we left it for the Japanese tourists standing three deep at the cash registers

Last night we walked over the Pont Alexandre (Alexander Bridge) with it's quintessentially Parisian lamp standards--all curly cues and gold leaf and walked through the Jardin des Tuileries to the Louvre (open late on Wednesdays). To say that we did the abbreviated version is putting it mildly, but we did ooh and aah over a fair number of Renaissance paintings and, of course, the Mona Lisa. I couldn't believe that they now allow you to take flash photos and videos of everything in the museum. There were people camped out in front of the Mona Lisa, including a 6 foot 4 inch guy with very big hair, just snapping away.

We figure that we walked over 5 1/2 miles yesterday, so we feel quite justified in our support of the local patisseries.

Today is was boating on the Seine--very relaxing and under beautiful sunny skies. It's still a bit chilly, but we have gloves, and Barbara and I did buy hats that are quite stylin'.  We also explored the Latin Quarter, where they have been learning Latin for over 700 years. I think someone should tell them that it's not quite so useful anymore, but what do I know.

While wandering up this street and that, we came across the Palais de Luxumborg and gardens and it was such a pleasant surprise. There's a large fountain and the kids were sailing boats on it. They had big sticks that they used to get the boats going, then the wind and water would sail them around--and the kids would race around the fountain to where they landed. It was so wonderfully low tech, you could imagine that kids have been doing that very same thing in that very same place for hundreds of years.

We sat in the sun and watched them for ages. Ah, life is good!!!

Paris, France--All Quiet On the West Bank

Bonjour! Mr. Nichols and Mr. Biggs, my high school French teachers would be so proud. Today I ordered 4 croissants and coffees with milk--in Paris. Actually, I had to have help, but it's the effort that counts. And ordering 50cl of wine just doesn't have the same cache as "Je vais chercher du bon vin, ala cave". 

Courtesy of Iceland Air, and with a very quick stop in Keflavik airport we arrived in Paris on Sunday wondering if we would make it out of the airport due to the barricades and protests. We have now been here for a day and a half and the only signs of trouble that we have seen were some long lines at the petrol station on the motorway coming into Paris from Charles De Gaulle.

The weather is quite like the Pacific Northwest that we left, mid 50's in the day, high 30's at night. Quite the shock for Carl & Barbara, our traveling companions from Atlanta.  

We had a fabulous day yesterday,eating our way across Paris. We started with breakfast at a quintessential cafe on the corner of a grand boulevard just around the corner from the Eiffel Tower. Our fabulously crusty baguette and creamy butter topped off with fresh apricot jam. Freshly squeezed OJ always tastes so much better in a wine glass, plus we had our coffee with milk (espresso that was shown the milk jug--not much more). Our eggs and bacon came with the sunny side up eggs cooked in butter (yep that's the way) and canadian bacon.

A couple of hours later after we'd negotiated the metro out to the Bastille and sang "Do you hear the people sing" while marching down the street (well only Barbara and I did that, the men pretended not to know us). We ended up in the Jewish section where we had lunch at the "best Fallafel place in town". This told to us by our new best friend--the native Parisian standing next to us in the 25 minute line to get inside. You know it had to be good. He informed us that we had to have the Schwarma, which we did. He said that it was beef--actually that beef was lamb, but it was excellent. Fritz and I had it in a pita oozing with eggplant, tomatoes and sauce, Carl & Barbara had the plat du jour which was the same thing, but on a much tidier plate.

From there we walked to Notre Dame, paid our respects, and the men used the time inside to synchronize their cameras--heathens!

While strolling across to the left bank to get the metro we purchased a black peaked cap for Fritz as a replacement for his "I am an American Tourist" Cal Poly baseball hat. We're still working on Carl!  Barbara and I have our eyes on some tres chic cloche hats that we just need to have a couple of glasses of wine before we actually purchase.

Dinner was crepes--the men had dark chocolate and bananas, I had sugar and lemon and Barbara had Nutella. Yes it was a light meal, but it did come only a few hours after Schwarma.

We wandered over to the Eiffel Tower just for a post dinner walk and decided to go up as the lines were light. It was spectacular. The moon was full and the air was crystal clear (and chilly), and the views went for miles. We saw the Arch de Triomphe, the Seine winding by with the Bateau Mouche brightly lit up and many of the historic buildings were lit up as well--including the Tower which offered up a light show on the hour--while we were at the top---incredible.

Today, we're off to wander more neighborhoods, using that mad-man Rick Steves as a guide. Talk soon.

7-11-2010 Maui, Hawaii

Here's a fairly accurate accounting of our time here on Maui----Eating, Eating, Eating----Swimming, Snorkeling, Lounging---Sightseeing, Strolling, Shopping, Sleeping!

We have been here since Tuesday, Monique arrived on Wednesday and has to go home today, so we've been cramming in all of the important events as mentioned above.

Our B & B "Wai Ola" is a fabulous place just to the North of Lahaina. We have a 1,000 square foot apartment with a patio which leads right to the pool and hot tub. There is only one other couple staying here, a mother and daughter from Germany, and we have only seen them for about 2 minutes one morning. Therefore, we feel very proprietary about "our" private swimming pool. Kim, our host, is an excellent baker so we get little treats all the time--just what you need lots of coffee cake, mint chocolate chip brownies and chocolate dipped macaroons when you're trying to look sylph like in a swimsuit.  Actually, we've given up on sylph like and are now emulating some of the local Samoans. You just get a great big sarong and tie it over everything--then put your towel down next to the largest person on the beach.

We have seen some fabulous fish and urchins and coral while snorkeling. There's a great beach with a good reef just a few miles from here--although it has been quite windy which blows the sand into the water (wind is coming off the land so it's not the nice light trade winds you normally get here).

We have been hitting up all of our favorite eating spots and had a delightful meal at Cheeseburgers in Paradise--sitting in the open window---watching the sunset---listening to a nice young local guy strumming away on his guitar. We've also eaten so much fresh fish that we're starting to sprout gills, and have had our fair share of papayas with lime and pineapples. As that all sounds so nice and healthy, I won't go into great detail about the vast variety of Mai tais that have been consumed in the name of research or the macadamia nut pancakes with coconut syrup (don't knock 'em till you've tried 'em) that have been wolfed down in moments of weakness. These are especially delicious taken with a mimosa at Castaway's at Ka'anapali --best when sitting on the patio right on the ocean overlooking the island of Lanai. We liked these so much we've been twice.

Yesterday we went to the South end of the island to see what was going on there. They were having some outrigger canoe races, so while Fritz and I read our books under the shade of a big palm tree, Monique wandered down the beach to get a closer look. When she returned we asked if she had made new friends with some of the nice looking young men with paddles, she replied that, just her luck, when she got there they were just starting the Lesbian Canoe Club trials. Bummer!


 Aloha from Maui.

4-27-2010 Roatan, Honduras

Well here we are on the slippery slope to matching nylon track suits! We all purchased clearance Princess Caribbean T-shirts on board and wore them off the ship at our first port of call--Grand Cayman. Must admit that Grand Cayman didn’t do much for us. There was the usual array of Diamond sellers and T-shirt hawkers, so we hopped the local bus and paid $2.50 to go to Seven Mile Beach, which apparently is a bit shorter than its name. The sand was beautiful and white and the sun was shining, but the waves were a bit high for bobbing around, and the greatest insult was that a rum-punch was $8.75. Add to that the hoard of Carnival revelers that came and took over our covered pavilion and then proceeded to screech up and down the beach at each other and it was not the best beach adventure.

Roatan, Honduras today made up for it. We docked at Carnival Corporation’s new cruise dock (apparently there wasn’t a cruise dock, so they built it themselves)--complete with an old ski chair that takes you to the beach--about a 5 minute walk otherwise. They do have to stop the chair regularly for old people to get on and off and, while Fritz was making disparaging remarks, I had to remind him that he caused the chair to be stopped at Steamboat when he caught his ski tip getting off.

Still, we didn’t wait around the perfectly manicured beach at Mahogany Bay, but entrusted ourselves to Marlon and his trusty Toyota Corolla Taxi with the sagging headliner, no rear-view mirror and a piece of rope for the driver’s door handle. He gave us a tour of the island, including such hot spots as the new Wendy’s hamburger joint, the police check point where they have a rope stretched across the road as a speed bump, and Half Moon Bay where we spent the most delightful day. This bay has the best snorkeling on the island, and we were not disappointed. There was about 5 different kinds of coral, including my favorite--huge chunks of brain coral. There were dozens of fabulously colored fish from mottled browns that surprised you when they moved, to reds, to neon blues and greens and manta rays and fuzzy caterpillar like things. The water was like bath water and the outside air temperature was 106 degrees with 100% humidity, so the water was that much more enticing. Of course we had to cool off with some rum punches and local beers and fish fresh out of the bay---so you can see why this day rated as pretty close to perfect. Plus, we were only a slight shade of pink from yesterday, compared to many of our shipmates who spent their time in the sun and are now varying shades of brilliant red to flame red to “oh my god why didn’t I wear more sunscreen “ red.