Caldera / Puntarenas, Costa Rica

There are two ports along this piece of the Pacific coast of Costa Rica--Puntarenas is the cruise port and Caldera is the Industrial port. Apparently due to low tides we docked at the Industrial port of Caldera making it difficult for tours. First, the port was loading or unloading freighters with the attendant container trucks, cranes, etc. Then, the only place for any kind of local crafts, or Internet access was a large, partially air conditioned, metal warehouse. But, most challenging was the very tight port security which prevented anyone from walking from the port, coupled with only a few taxis, mini-buses, or other transportation that were allowed into the port. As a result some people were trapped in the port facility. 

We got off as soon as the ship was cleared and soon arranged for our mini-van with an English-speaking guide. We grabbed 4 other unsuspecting passengers (actually 2 of them had been subjected to us the day before, but being easy-going Aussies they knew what they were in for) and made up a full van. We then traversed our way out through the semi-trucks, the multiple gates and I.D. checks, and various port authorities. As we left there was a huge line of buses, vans and taxis waiting to get in through the check points and we speculated that they were doing a one-out, one-in routine, which would have taken forever. As far as we know, the ships tours went O.K. 

To be fair, we have been to the other port (Puntarenas) and it is not one of our favorites. There is a walkway along the waterfront with stalls selling local goods and Costa Rican Coffee, but not much else right in the port area. 

Back to our trip. Our half day tour was with Melendez Tours, a family owned local company (www.melendeztours.com). Exon our guide (sadly, no relation to the gas company) and our driver, Ruth (a former member of the police force) took good care of us. After a stop along the way for fresh mango/passion fruit smoothies

(Andrew & Exon)

we arrived in Tarcoles for our jungle crocodile tour. This part of the tour was in conjunction with Crocodile Man tours who insist they are the original, having been at it for 20 years.

I must admit that there were much newer, flashier, boats than the one we were on, and the passenger to life-preserver ratio (many of them in the original plastic bags) seemed a bit skimpy, but we thoroughly enjoyed our trip, and made it back with all of our body parts. Our boat was lower in the water,  the side a mere 18" above the water, than some of the others which were on pontoons and with plastic chairs attached to the deck.

Apparently there are about 2,000 American Crocodiles in the Tarcoles river. They can grow to about 16 feet long and can live to 100 years old. And these crocs are quite well fed, eating mostly fish. However, we were reminded that they will eat cows, horse, and humans--being particularly fond of "white meat".  Our driver, Oscar, actually got out of the boat and enticed "Angelina Jolie" out onto the bank for a little snack of chicken! 

According to our guide, Johnny, there are about 6 crocodiles who have come to associate the boats with food and will do this. They are not tame or trained--just smart! As soon as she had eaten the chicken, she whipped around and glided back into the water straight at us--causing Fritz to jump back in his seat!

We also saw lots of crocs lurking in the mud and tiny ones snoozing in the mangroves.

Add to that, some very interesting birds, termite nests, crabs, flowers and trees, (particularly teak) and it was a very cool trip.

Termite nest

Lots of recent rain had made the river muddy.

Back in the van we learned that each town has a school, a church, a clinic and a soccer field.

Also, people have electricity and running water and internet!

Visiting the fishing boats in Tarcoles we were delighted to come upon this after-school game of marbles. Clearly the kid in turquoise was the reigning champion as he was cleaning up! I was happy to share my bag of lifesavers with the viewing public, including the three old guys leaning on bicycles, while we watched the champion mop up the competition!

On the beach we came across a boat attracting lots of attention from the scavengers as they sorted out their catch.

On the way back to the ship we stopped off for a few souvenirs and some local beer. In Costa Rica, it's Imperial Beer--which we all thought looked like it was brewed by the third reich!

Note to my kids--Tarcoles is just up the coast from Jaco, where you went surfing!